Glycolic acid is the most popular of the Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) or fruit acids. It is characterised by its very low molecular weight which enables it to penetrate deeper skin levels.

In low concentrations, it has hydrating properties.

In higher concentrations, it is a powerful exfoliator which dissolves the lipids that attach to dead cells facilitating their release and thereby stimulating the cell renewal cycle. For this reason, it is indicated for anti-ageing treatment and as an adjuvant treatment for dyschromia and acne.

Issues with Glycolic as an active ingredient?

With a pKa of 3.83, it is an acid that dissociates quickly above pH 3 levels. At a physiological pH value of the skin, it will be 98% dissociated.

Traditionally, in order to be effective, it is formulated in very acidic mediums increasing the dosage in line with any increase in the pH in the formula i.e. NOT dissociated.

It should be noted that a greater concentration does not automatically mean greater efficiency as much depends on the pH level of the formulation. For this reason and given the ease with which it can penetrate the skin, it can produce skin reddening or irritations. Accordingly, it is contraindicated for use on sensitive areas of the skin or for people with reactive or sensitive.

GLYCOLIC ACTIVE INGREDIENT PROPERTIES

• Accelerates the renewal of the stratum corneum
• Improves the general appearance of the skin
• Adjuvant treatment for dyschromia
• Improves the appearance of fine expression lines
• Facilitates skin hydration

BENEFITS OF THE ENCAPSULATION CDS-GLYCOLIC

• Maintains the Glycolic acid at a low pH level until the point of delivery
• Facilitates formulations at any pH level without the encapsulated acid dissociating
• A smaller dose of acid is required to obtain the same amount of non-dissociated acid in the stratum corneum 
• Selective delivery of the active ingredient in the stratum corneum to ensure a higher concentration at that level and the avoidance of skin penetration, thereby reducing irritation
• Greater tolerance compared to free acids
• Gradual delivery to ensure a more sustainable renewal action

PROPERTY CHARACTERISTICS of CDS-GLYCOLIC

• Glycolic Acid encapsulated at 3% in the INdermal CDS system
• + 260% delivery in the stratum corneum compared to active ingredients without encapsulation
• White coloured liquid
• Biomimetic nanovesicle with increased hydration action and restorative